The DrillMaster Bayonet


The DrillMaster Bayonet

DrillMaster Welded BayonetBring your exhibition drill to a higher level. Every Driller I have spoken with over the years, except one, has loved bladed drill. It adds a tiny amount of weight and length to the rifle and also brings the center of balance forward about a half inch, but flow work almost seems effortless with a blade.

The DrillMaster Bayonet is a real bayonet, but the tip is rounded and the blade is dull and has welds for extra stability. Armed drill has a certain amount of danger; drilling bladed ups the ante considerably. The DrillMaster Bayonet is a ‘safer’ bayonet for Drillers. By purchasing the DrillMaster Bayonet, you agree to take full responsibility for using the item for exhibition drill and hold harmless The DrillMaster. That being said, bayonets were never designed to withstand the rigors of exhibition drill. The welded version adds extra stability, but there is no way to guarantee that a DrillMaster Bayonet will never break. Click here and read all about bayonets.

——————————————————————————–

Note to Parents & Drillers

OK, you or your son or daughter is thinking about going into bladed drill (exhibition drill with a bayonet attached to the rifle). I speak to parents throughout the school year who have some concerns about this, and rightfully so. Spinning a rifle has a certain amount of danger and adding a blade to the end of your rifle adds to that danger. Thankfully, DrillMaster Bayonets do not have a sharp edge or point.

The guidance I offer is that you should have at least two years of solo exhibition drill experience; three or four years would be even better- which means the student would be out of high school. With that said the minimum age to begin bladed drill would be 16, but preferably 18. High school students may not drill bladed at a competition, JROTC or otherwise. As far as I know, the four military services do not even want students owning a bayonet.  When you graduate high school, the bladed drill world is wide open. Please wait.

——————————————————————————–

Now you have a choice! You can purchase the non-reinforced, reinforced, ultra-reinforced and chrome versions of the DrillMaster Bayonet. All versions come with a scabbard. All DrillMaster Bayonet versions fit the:

You may have to take a rasp (metal file) to the bayonet if it does not perfectly fit your rifle’s upper band bayonet lug. Not all lugs were not made exactly the same- close, but not the same.

Bayonet Information
The M1905 Bayonet was designed to be used with the .30 caliber U.S. M1903 Springfield rifle. Variants of the M1903 rifle were produced during World War I and World War II by Springfield Armory, Remington Arms, Rock Island Arsenal, and Smith-Corona Typewriter. The blade is 16 inches (40.6 cm) long, and the handle is 4 inches (10.1 cm) long. It also fits the .30 caliber U.S. Rifle M1, or M1 Garand. In 1942, the same bayonet design (with plastic instead of wood for the handle) was again produced and renamed the M1942 bayonet, which was manufactured to keep up with wartime production of the M1 Garand. In 1943, the U.S. Army decided a shorter bayonet would be better, so as many of the M1905/1942s as possible were recalled, had their blades cut down to 10 inches, and were reissued. Shortened M1905s were redesignated M1905E1. New production 10-inch bayonets were designated M1 bayonets.

The M1 Bayonet was designed to be used with the .30 caliber U.S. Rifle M1. The blade is 10 inches (25.4 cm) long, and the handle is 4 inches (10.1 cm) long. Before 1943, the M1 Garand and all variants of the U.S. Rifle Model 1903 were using the M1905 bayonet and later M1942 bayonets. They functioned well in the European theater, where in the rare bayonet-actions of the time, they were matched up against the 9 3/4 inch long blade of the German S84/98 III bayonet fitted on the Karabiner 98k. However, in the Pacific theater, the much longer Japanese sword bayonets on the already very long Arisaka rifle caused many American troops to retain the long M1905 bayonet.

The M6 Bayonet is a bayonet used by the U.S. military for the M14 rifle. It was introduced in 1957, at the same time as the rifle itself. It is the only type of bayonet made for the M14, and the only other rifle it fits is the civilian version of the M14, the M1A. Like its predecessor, the M5 bayonet for the M1 Garand rifle, the M6 was intended to serve additional roles as a combat knife and utility knife. The basic blade design was like the M4, M5, and later M7 bayonets, based on the World War II designed M3 Trench Knife. The overall length of the M6 is 11 3/8 inches, with a blade 6 5/8 inches long. Contractors who manufactured the M6 included Aerial Cutlery Co., Columbus Milpar and Mfg. Co. and Imperial Knife Co. The M6 was replaced by the M7 bayonet after the Vietnam War, when the M16 Rifle was adopted by both the United States Army and Marine Corps as the standard service rifle. The most notable differences between the two are the diameter of the muzzle rings, the shape of the handle, and the locking mechanism. The M6 has a spring-loaded lever near the guard that when depressed releases the bayonet, and the M7’s release mechanism is on the pommel. Both models are the same length, have the same black finish, and use the M8A1 sheath. Today, the M6 is mainly used for ceremonial purposes.

The fuller is a rounded or beveled groove or slot in the flat side of a blade (e.g. a sword, knife, or bayonet). A fuller is often used to lighten the blade, much in the way that an H-beam shape allows a given amount of strength to be achieved with less material. Longer knives or bayonets intended as offensive weapons may employ fullers (also known as ‘blood grooves’) to lighten the blade while maintaining its strength. When combined with proper distal tapers, heat treatment and blade tempering, a fullered blade can be 20% to 35% lighter than a non-fullered blade without any sacrifice of strength or blade integrity. This effect lessens as the blade is reduced in length. Short bladed knives may employ a fuller simply for their aesthetic effect.

The DrillMaster Bayonet is used by soloists and teams across America and around the world including  the Vancouver Police Department Honor Guard Drill Team, the Florida State Army ROTC Gator Guard Drill Team, members of the Norwegian Honor Guard (HMKG) and many more!

Always tape your bayonet!

You need a second method of securing your bayonet, so be smart and safe and tape it to the barrel using strapping (reinforced tape that has small bands of fibers in it) or electrical tape.

If you are going to use the same bayonet in training and competition, take the plastic handle parts off and keep them and the screw in a safe place when practicing. Replacements for the handle pieces can be difficult to come by and there is no need to drill with a broken bayonet handle.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION
High school students may not drill bladed at a competition and the four military services do not even want students owning a bayonet. I cannot knowingly sell to a high school student.

DrillMaster Unwelded BayonetUnwelded DrillMaster Bayonet* – $72.95 + Shipping

  • Length is about 13.5″
    • Plastic Grips
  • Weight is approx. 14.9 oz.
  • Scabbard

DrillMaster Welded BayonetWelded DrillMaster Bayonet* – $77.95 + Shipping

  • Length is about 13.5″
    • Plastic Grips
  • Weight is approx. 14.9 oz.
  • Scabbard

DrillMaster Welded BayonetM1905/1942 Replica DrillMaster Bayonet* – $77.95 + Shipping

  • Length is about 20″
    • Plastic Grips
  • Weight is approx. 15.5 oz.
  • Scabbard

20140825_153218Unwelded Chrome DrillMaster Bayonet* – $79.95 + Shipping

  • Length is about 13.5″
  • Weight is approx. 14.9 oz.
  • Plastic Grips
  • Scabbard
SOLD OUT!

SOLD OUT!

I am restocking!

Ultra BayonetM1 Replica Ultra-Reinforced DrillMaster Bayonet* – $85.95 + Shipping

  • Length is about 13.5″
  • No grips, they do not fit
  • Weight is approx. 16.5 oz.

You need to put a piece of wire or a zip tie through the hole in the handle plate and the lever to keep the inside pieces from falling out when you drill.


Bayonet Handle PartsM1/M1905/M1942 Bayonet Handle Parts Set – $14.95 + Shipping

  • Sold only as a set of two handle pieces and the screw

Wood handlesM1/M1905/M1942 Wood Bayonet Handle Parts Set – $25.95 + Shipping

  • Sold only as a set of two handle pieces, the screw and knurled nut

 

*Patents are pending on all DrillMaster Bayonet models

[embedplusvideo height=”225″ width=”300″ standard=”http://www.youtube.com/v/KJoyFMfylTw?fs=1″ vars=”ytid=KJoyFMfylTw&width=300&height=225&start=&stop=&rs=w&hd=0&autoplay=0&react=1&chapters=&notes=” id=”ep1424″ /]

exhibition drill, armed drill, drill team, drill meet, drill competition, drill team training, drillmaster bayonet, bayonet with scabbard, M1901 bayonet, bayonet


48 thoughts on “The DrillMaster Bayonet”

  1. Quick question, what’s the difference between when it says welded and non-wielded. It does say that
    non-reinforced=Unwelded, but what exactly does that mean?

    1. Hi Nick,

      All M1 bayonets are welded underneath the T-crossing at the handle, but my bayonets come with (or without) an extra weld above the T-crossing. That is the extra reinforcement that I offer with my bayonets along with the relatively safer dull blade.

      1. Thank you for a quick reply. One last question, are there pros or cons to one or the other, or more of just personal preference?

        1. The only con is that, currently, the welded version does not fit into the scabbard, something I am researching to change.

          Personal preference, really.

          All my pleasure.

  2. Have you finished the Drill Master M14 rifle you mention in yor book, “Filling In the Gaps” . If you have is there a bayonet available for it.

    1. SFC Offley,

      Thank you for your question and your purchase of one of my books.

      In my research to create the M14 it came down to having approximately $60K to begin the process of molding, etc. So, I shelved the project for the foreseeable future. As far as an M14 bayonet, I do not carry one in the DrillMaster Bayonet line since the M14 bayonet is completely different, but am willing to try it. Let me know if you have an interest and I will begin the process of ordering a few.

      1. I would be interested, I believe the M14 bayonet will fit the M16 & the M16A1. I’ve been constructing a soldier cross an missing man table for the Memorial Day Service I sponser each year. This will be my 9th year.

          1. I now have a bayonet for the M16 and made my Soldier’s Cross. We used it during our Memorial Day Service this year (2015)

  3. Hi,
    I was wondering if you could give a reasonable estimate as to how long shipping takes to major cities so people so get an idea. But specifically i’d like to know about how long I should expect for one to be shipped to Phoenix, Az

  4. I marched with a Pershing Rifle Drill Team back in the early 70s. We used the 1903 a3. I remember that the stock had a “pistol grip” the stock on this drill version appears to be closer to the A1. Or has age and time dimmed my memory.

    Thank You
    Roy

    1. Mr Dorris,

      Thank you for contacting me. I am working on a fairly extensive article that will, hopefully, explain the differences in the 1903 models that Drillers and teams have been using for decades. I’ll keep you posted!

  5. Thank you. I would like the chrome. Also i just ordered it and there is not an email conformation coming through. Will it send me an email conformation?
    Thank you

    1. Hello Devin,

      Thank you for your question. Ever since I first created the DrillMaster Bayonet back in 2009, the original dulled and reinforced, safer bayonet, I have not raised the price and have attempted to keep the cost as low as possible since it’s inception. I have already had difficulty for some time keeping the prices so low as I have and have been forced to increase the price due to my rising costs. The cost is still as low as possible, but everything is more expensive these days as I am sure you are aware.

  6. I am looking to get at least one M6 bayonets, I am trying to bring our team into exhibition with blades. It is hard to find them and I don’t see them available here but you seam to have the means. I am pat of a national competition team and would love to be able to do some business with your company. Is there any way you would be able to accommodate our team?

    1. Hi Joshua,

      The M6 bayonet, just to make sure we are on the same wavelength, is for the M14 rifle. I have wanted to offer it, but was waiting for a request and here it is!

      I will do some research and see what I can find through my suppliers. Please send me an email through the Contact page and we can get into particulars.

      DrillMaster

    1. Hello Hunter,

      To my knowledge, no. The problem is that both of those rifles do not have what is called a bayonet lug. It plays a crucial part in ensuring that the bayonet remains in the same place.
      Thanks for the question!

  7. Hi, my name is Carl and I’m in my senior year of high school and my 3rd year in the AFJROTC program and I was wondering if since I do not have a drill rifle, I was wondering if I could use a baseball bas to practice rifle spinning. Also, would that be something you recommend?

    1. Hi Carl,

      That’s a very good question! I don’t recommend using a baseball bat because of extraordinary weight difference at each end. A broomstick is good, even a large bore PVC pipe would work. You want to have something around 36 inches long to begin spinning. Visit http://www.paradestore.com and check out their rifles. They have a great selection and very reasonable prices.

      Keep my posted on your progress either here, on Facebook or Instagram.

Leave a Reply

Training and Education for Drill Teams and Honor Guard Units

%d bloggers like this: